Car shampoo, snow foam and traffic film remover — the whole exterior wash, from pre-wash to drying aid. Formulated, tested and filmed in our own detailing studio in Poland, held in UK stock and shipped tracked.
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Three stages of the same wash. Pick by how dirty the car actually is — concentrate or ready to use, with the LADY line if you prefer a softer scent.
Thick, clinging snow foam at neutral pH, so it lifts loose grit without stripping wax or ceramic protection. Dilute it into a foam lance, or start with BASIC Optimal Snow Foam Concentrate if you want the entry-level bottle.
A pH neutral car shampoo that cleans road dirt without stripping wax, sealant or a ceramic coating. At 1:400 a capful does a bucket, which is why one bottle lasts most owners a whole season.
An alkaline traffic film remover for the grime a neutral foam leaves behind: winter salt, diesel haze and baked-on road film. It cleans hard, so keep it off paint you want to keep waxed and follow the label for dilution.
The three things people ask us most before they change their wash routine.
Rinse the car first, then cover it top to bottom through a foam lance or a foam gun on a pressure washer. Give it three to five minutes to dwell, but never let it dry — work in the shade, on cool panels. Rinse thoroughly from the top down, then move on to the contact wash. Follow the label for dilution; mixing it stronger gives you thicker foam, not a cleaner car.
A pre-wash is the touchless first stage of the wash: snow foam or traffic film remover applied to a dirty car and rinsed off before anything touches the paint. Its job is to remove the loose grit a wash mitt would otherwise drag across your clear coat. That single step is the cheapest way to stop wash-induced swirl marks. Citrus pre-wash formulas work on the same principle — the scent matters far less than the fact you rinsed the grit away first.
On a genuinely dirty car, no. It removes a real share of the grit before your mitt touches the paint, and that is what keeps the finish swirl-free. On a car washed a week ago that only carries light dust, honestly, yes — go straight to shampoo and you lose nothing. The mistake is judging foam by how thick it looks: cling and dwell time do the cleaning, and Mike Nizzio, who films these washes for 120,000+ subscribers, will tell you the shaving-foam look is the least useful part of it.
The numbers in the names — 1:20, 1:100, 1:400 — are the dilution, not a suggestion. Mixing stronger does not clean better; it just empties the bottle faster and leaves more residue to rinse off.
Straight answers to what customers ask before their first proper wash.
For most cars, a pH neutral shampoo with plenty of lubricating foam. It cleans road dirt without stripping the wax, sealant or coating underneath, which is exactly what NEUTRAL SHAMPOO CONCENTR. 1:400 is built for. If your car wears a ceramic coating, CERAMIC COAT SHAMPOO CONCENTRATE washes and tops the protection up in the same pass. Best here means the mildest thing that still gets the car clean.
Pre-wash and rinse first, then work with two buckets: one with diluted shampoo, one with clean water for rinsing the mitt. Wash top to bottom in straight lines rather than circles, and rinse the mitt after every panel. Keep the car wet and out of direct sun so nothing dries on the paint. Almost every wash swirl comes from grit trapped in the mitt, not from the shampoo itself.
Nothing from the kitchen cupboard, honestly. Washing-up liquid does clean, but it is designed to strip grease, so it takes your wax or sealant with it and leaves the paint bare. If you have genuinely run out, a rinse-only wash does less harm than a detergent one. A 1:400 concentrate costs pennies per wash, which makes running out the only real problem.
A foam lance fits a pressure washer and produces the thick, clinging foam most people picture. A snow foam gun runs off a garden hose, gives thinner foam and needs a longer dwell, but it still does the job. Neither comes with the chemical — we sell the concentrate, you supply the kit. Whichever you use, set the dilution by the label rather than by how the foam looks.
Snow foam is one kind of pre-wash, not the whole idea. A pre-wash is any touchless stage that loosens dirt and gets rinsed away before contact, and that can be neutral snow foam or an alkaline traffic film remover on a heavily soiled car. Foam is the gentler option and safe on protected paint; TFR is stronger and will shorten the life of a wax. Choose by how dirty the car is, not by habit.
What comes before the foam, and what comes after the dry.
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