Alloy wheel cleaner in every strength — pH neutral, alkaline and acid — plus DEIRON iron fallout removers and a wheel sealant. Formulated, tested and filmed in our own detailing studio in Poland, and held in UK stock.
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Match the chemistry to the wheel, not to the label. The mildest cleaner that still gets the job done is always the right one.
A pH neutral gel for wheels that are washed regularly, ceramic coated or wearing a fresh sealant. It clings to the face instead of running straight off, and it will not touch lacquer, paint or a coating.
The workhorse for ordinary brake dust and road grime, as a GEL+ concentrate or a ready-to-use FLUO version if you would rather not mix anything. LADY ALKALINE PINK is the same class of cleaner with a softer scent.
An iron fallout remover rather than a cleaner: it dissolves the hot metal particles welded into the wheel face, and bleeds red as it reacts. Use it every few washes on wheels and on paintwork, where an ordinary cleaner simply cannot reach.
Three honest answers — the same ones Mike Nizzio gives on camera to 120,000+ subscribers.
Work on cool wheels, out of the sun, and do them before anything touches the paint. Rinse off the loose dirt, spray the cleaner across the face and into the barrel, let it dwell a couple of minutes without drying, then agitate with a wheel brush and a soft detailing brush around the bolts. Rinse thoroughly, front and back, and dry the wheel so hard water cannot spot it. Every few washes, swap the regular cleaner for DEIRON BLOODY to pull out the iron a normal cleaner leaves behind.
You can, and we would still tell you not to. Washing-up liquid strips whatever protection the wheel has, and penetrating oils leave a film that holds dust and can dull lacquer over time. None of them dissolve embedded iron, which is the thing actually staining the wheel. A dedicated cleaner is formulated to lift brake dust and then rinse away completely — that last part is what household chemistry gets wrong.
Tar needs a solvent, not a wheel cleaner. Rinse the area, apply a dedicated tar remover to cool paint, give it a minute to soften the spot, then lift it away with a clean microfibre rather than rubbing at it. Petrol and white spirit will shift tar, but they also attack trim, rubber and any wax on the panel, so they are not worth the risk on your own car. Our tar and glue remover sits in Decontamination, and tar removal is the step to do before polishing or coating.
ACID WHEEL CLEANER 1:20 is the strongest thing on this shelf, and it belongs on neglected, factory-lacquered wheels only. Keep it away from flaking lacquer, polished or bare metal and chrome, work on cool wheels, spot-test first and follow the label for dilution.
What customers ask us before they choose a strength.
The mildest one that still gets your wheels clean. For maintained, coated or delicate finishes that means NEUTRAL WHEEL CLEANER GEL+; for normal brake dust, an alkaline cleaner; acid formulas are for genuinely neglected wheels and nothing else. Reaching for the strongest bottle by default adds risk without cleaning any better. Whatever you use weekly, a deironizer every few washes is what keeps the finish looking new.
A wheel cleaner lifts what is sitting on the surface: road film, loose brake dust and grime. An iron or fallout remover reacts chemically with the metal particles that have embedded themselves into the lacquer, which is why DEIRON bleeds red as it works. You need both, but not equally often. Cleaner every wash, fallout remover every few.
Honestly, you do not — no cleaner reverses corrosion. Once the lacquer is blistering and the alloy is oxidising underneath, that is physical damage, and only refurbishment fixes it. What you can do is remove the embedded fallout that accelerates it, using a pH neutral cleaner and a deironizer. On damaged or flaking lacquer, avoid acid products completely.
Treat them as painted panels, because that is what they are. Stick to the pH neutral gel for routine washing and DEIRON BLOODY for embedded fallout, as neither will dull a satin or matte finish. Keep acid and strong alkaline cleaners away from matte black wheels — they can leave patchy, shiny marks that no polish will fix. Dry the wheel afterwards so water spots do not set in.
Wheels benefit from it more than paint does, because they take the worst of the heat and brake dust. WHEEL HYDRO PROTECT+ seals a clean wheel so dust sits on top of the sealant instead of bonding into the lacquer, and the next clean takes a fraction of the effort. It is not permanent — expect to reapply it, and it will not survive an acid cleaner. Apply it only to a wheel that is genuinely clean and dry, or you seal the brake dust in.
Wheels come first on wash day — here is everything that follows.
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