A complete car polish system for machine work: heavy cut, one step and finishing compounds, plus pad primer and pad cleaner. Formulated, tested and filmed in our own detailing studio in Poland, held in UK stock and shipped tracked.
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Three compounds, one decision: pick by how bad the paint actually is, or take the whole car polish kit as the PRO POLISHING SET.
The compound to reach for when the paint is genuinely damaged: deep swirls, wash marks, sanding marks after bodywork. It cuts hard and fast, and on soft or dark paint it will leave some haze, so plan a refining pass afterwards.
The one most cars actually need. It carries enough cut to clear typical swirls and light scratches, then breaks down to a clean, glossy finish in the same pass.
A refining polish for the last stage, not a defect remover. On a soft pad at low speed it clears haze and holograms and brings dark paint up to a proper wet gloss.
The three things people ask us most before they pick up a polisher.
Start with clean, decontaminated paint, because polishing over dirt just grinds it in. Prime the pad with BOOST POLISH PAD PRIMER+, add three or four pea-sized drops of compound and spread them on low speed. Work a section around 40 x 40 cm with slow, overlapping passes and light pressure, then wipe it down and inspect under a torch. Once one section looks right, repeat that same recipe across the car.
Black paint hides nothing, so swirls and holograms show in almost every light. The reliable answer is two stages: ONE STEP POLISH, or HEAVY CUT if defects are deep, then PERFECT FINISH on a soft pad to refine the surface. Keep speed and pressure down on that last pass, because heat and a tired pad are what leave haze on dark paint. Clean the pad often with POLISHING PAD CLEANER; a clogged pad mars black paint faster than any compound will.
Chrome, polished alloy and stainless trim are bare metal, not clear coat, so paint compounds are the wrong tool. Use a dedicated metal polish on a microfibre applicator or a small soft pad, and work in small sections. Expect the cloth to turn black; that is oxidised metal coming off. Finish with a wax or sealant, because bare metal starts oxidising again straight away.
Every polish takes a few microns of clear coat with it, so this is a correction job, not a monthly ritual. Do it properly once, then protect the paint and keep it that way with sensible washing.
Short answers to what customers ask before their first machine polish.
For most cars once a year is plenty, and many only need it every two or three years. Machine polishing removes clear coat each time, so it is a correction job, not routine maintenance. If the paint simply looks flat, top up the wax or sealant instead of cutting again. Protection and a careful wash routine are what stop you needing to polish often.
Black paint needs a finishing stage, and that is the real difference. Remove defects with ONE STEP POLISH, or HEAVY CUT if they are deep, then refine with PERFECT FINISH on a soft pad at lower speed. Pads matter as much as the compound, so clean them with POLISHING PAD CLEANER between panels to stop the pad glazing and marring the paint.
Start with the mildest thing that works. Do a test spot with ONE STEP POLISH on a medium foam pad; on most cars that clears the majority of swirls in one pass. Only move up to HEAVY CUT if defects remain, and follow it with PERFECT FINISH. Hard paint takes more cut and softer paint needs less, so the test spot decides it, not the label.
Polish first, wax after, always. Polishing removes a thin layer, so wax applied beforehand simply gets cut away. After correction, wipe the panels with a paint degreaser to strip polishing oils, then apply wax, sealant or coating to bare, clean paint. That order is what makes the gloss last.
Yes, with a dual-action polisher. A DA is far more forgiving than a rotary and much harder to do damage with. Start on a flat panel such as a bonnet, keep the pad flat, use light pressure and stay off sharp edges and body lines where the clear coat is thinnest. Do a test spot, check it under a torch, then work round the car.
The rest of the polishing shelf, from compounds to glass and metal.
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